Most famous watches were designed for a job. The Cartier Santos was designed for one man. In 1904 the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont told his friend Louis Cartier that he could not check his pocket watch while flying, because both his hands were busy with the controls. Cartier's answer was a flat, square watch on a leather strap, worn on the wrist. More than 120 years later, it is still one of the watches people ask us for most.
A watch for the air
Santos-Dumont was a celebrity in Paris at the turn of the century, famous for flying his own airships over the city. In 1906 he flew the 14-bis, one of the first powered aeroplanes to fly in Europe. In an open cockpit a pocket watch on a chain made no sense. A wristwatch did, at a time when wristwatches were worn mostly by women. Cartier's design changed that: a square case with softened corners and lugs that flow into the strap, made to be read at a glance. Cartier began selling the Santos-Dumont to the public in 1911.
The screws that became a signature
On the Santos de Cartier, the screws on the bezel are what most people recognise first. They are often said to echo the riveted iron of the Eiffel Tower, and they give the Santos an industrial look that sets it apart from almost every other luxury watch. The square case did the rest. The Santos is the reason Cartier is still known for shapes rather than circles, a line that leads straight to the Tank of 1917.
1978: steel and gold
The modern Santos was born in 1978, when Cartier made it in steel and gold, with a bracelet that carries the same screws as the bezel. For a jeweller it was a bold step: a sports watch for everyday wear, in steel. It became one of the defining watches of the 1980s, and the Santos Galbée of 1987, with its gently curved case, followed it.
The Santos today
In 2018 Cartier redesigned the Santos de Cartier. The lines of the case were cleaned up and two practical ideas were added. QuickSwitch is a button under the case that lets you change from the bracelet to a leather strap in seconds, without tools. SmartLink lets you lengthen or shorten the bracelet by a link without a watchmaker. The automatic models run on Cartier's manufacture calibre 1847 MC. The Santos de Cartier comes in two main sizes, a medium model of about 35 mm and a large model of about 40 mm, while the thinner Santos-Dumont keeps the original shape on a leather strap.
Medium or large?
A square case wears larger than a round watch of the same width, so the medium model suits more wrists than its size suggests. The large model has more presence and suits wider wrists. If you are between the two, tell us your wrist size and what you wear now, and we will tell you honestly which one works.
What we check on a Santos
New or pre-owned, every Santos passes through our workshop in Pangrati before it is handed over. On this watch, these are the points that matter:
- The screws. Every screw on the bezel and the bracelet should have a clean, sharp slot. Worn or mismatched screws mean someone has opened or polished the watch without the right tools.
- The polishing. The Santos case has flat, brushed surfaces and sharp edges. Heavy polishing rounds them off, and that cannot be undone.
- The bracelet. The SmartLink and QuickSwitch buttons should click cleanly, and on older bracelets we look for stretch between the links.
- The dial and the papers. The Roman numerals, the dial printing and the reference on the case back should match the watch's papers.
Buying a Santos from GrecoWatch
We source new Cartier watches to order through our trade network, with box, papers and Cartier's international warranty, and we also buy and sell pre-owned pieces. Tell us the reference, size and bracelet you want and we will confirm availability and timing before you commit. See the Cartier watches we offer on our Cartier page, read our guide to buying a used Cartier in Athens, or, if you are selling, see how we buy a Cartier. For service, our workshop uses original parts only and gives a written 2-year warranty.
Santos questions
Who was the Cartier Santos made for?
The Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. In 1904 he asked his friend Louis Cartier for a watch he could read while flying, and Cartier designed a square wristwatch for him. It went on sale to the public in 1911.
What is the difference between the Santos de Cartier and the Santos-Dumont?
The Santos de Cartier is the sportier model, on a steel or steel-and-gold bracelet with screws on the bezel, and since 2018 it has QuickSwitch straps and SmartLink sizing. The Santos-Dumont is thinner and dressier, closer to the original of 1904, and is usually worn on a leather strap.
Is the Santos a good everyday watch?
Yes. The Santos de Cartier is water resistant to 100 m, the bracelet adjusts without tools, and QuickSwitch lets you change to a leather strap in seconds. It is one of the most practical watches Cartier makes.
Is GrecoWatch an authorised Cartier dealer?
No. We are an independent dealer and service workshop in Pangrati, Athens, not part of Cartier's official network. We source new Cartier watches through the trade, with box, papers and Cartier's international warranty, and our watchmaker checks every watch before it is handed over.