The Datejust is the most versatile watch Rolex makes and, for many collectors, the perfect first Rolex. It has been in continuous production since 1945 and comes in more sizes, metals, bezels, bracelets and dials than any other model. That variety is the appeal — and the reason buying well means knowing exactly which configuration you are looking at, and whether every part belongs together.
Size and generation
The classic Datejust is 36mm; there is also a 31mm mid-size and, since 2009, a larger 41mm line. The 41mm arrived first as the Datejust II (references 116300 / 116334) and was refined into the sleeker Datejust 41 (126300 / 126334) from 2016. The 36mm remains the timeless choice; the 41mm suits those who prefer a larger wrist presence.
Bezel types
- Smooth (domed): clean and understated, usually in steel.
- Fluted: the Datejust signature, always in white or yellow gold even on steel watches — a quick authenticity tell, since a genuine fluted bezel is precious metal.
- Engine-turned: a finely machined vintage-era bezel, now discontinued.
- Gem-set: factory diamond bezels exist; aftermarket diamond settings do not carry Rolex value and can affect resale.
Bracelet
The two staples are the three-link Oyster (sportier) and the five-link Jubilee (dressier, designed for the Datejust in 1945). Note that the “President” bracelet belongs to the Day-Date, not the Datejust — a claim of a “Datejust President” is a red flag. Confirm the bracelet and clasp are correct and stamped for the reference.
The dial: where character and value live
No Rolex offers more dial variety than the Datejust — colours, textures (the “tapestry”/linen and fluted-motif dials), diamond or Roman or baton markers, and sought-after patterns such as the “Wimbledon” (slate with green Roman numerals) and palm or floral motifs. The dial largely sets both the character and the price, so decide what you want, then confirm the dial is genuine and unrefinished. A redial destroys value.
The movement
Modern 36mm and 41mm Datejusts moved from the long-serving calibre 3135 to the newer calibre 3235, which brings a 70-hour power reserve and Rolex’s more efficient Chronergy escapement. The Datejust 41 (126300/126334) uses the 3235; earlier 116200/116234 and Datejust II models use the 3135. Both are excellent; the reference number tells you which you are getting.
Two-tone, gold and authenticity checks
Datejusts come in steel, two-tone “Rolesor” (steel and gold) and solid gold. On any watch with gold elements, confirm the fluted bezel and bracelet centre links are genuine precious metal. Check the Cyclops magnifies the date cleanly (2.5×), the rehaut (inner ring) engraving is sharp and aligned on modern watches, and the serial and reference are crisp and consistent.
Red flags
- An aftermarket diamond bezel or dial sold as “factory”.
- A refinished or aftermarket dial, or mismatched lume.
- A “Datejust President” — the President bracelet is a Day-Date feature.
- Over-polished case, soft fluting, or any serial inconsistency.
Datejust buying checklist
- Choose size and generation (36mm classic, 41mm Datejust II or Datejust 41).
- Confirm bezel type (and that a fluted or gem-set bezel is genuine).
- Correct bracelet and clasp (Oyster or Jubilee), stamped for the reference.
- Genuine, unrefinished dial in the configuration you want.
- Correct calibre for the reference (3135 vs 3235).
- Crisp rehaut, clean Cyclops, consistent serial and reference.
- Bought from a specialist who authenticates every watch.
How GrecoWatch can help
GrecoWatch is an Athens-based luxury watch specialist and a Chrono24 Trusted Seller. From a steel 36mm Jubilee to a Wimbledon-dial Datejust 41, we source and authenticate the exact configuration you want, with insured worldwide shipping and private viewings by appointment.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size Rolex Datejust should I buy?
The 36mm is the timeless, most versatile size and suits most wrists; the 41mm (Datejust 41) gives a more modern, larger presence; the 31mm is a mid-size option. Try both 36 and 41 if you can, as it comes down to wrist size and taste.
Is a fluted bezel real gold on a steel Datejust?
Yes. A genuine Rolex fluted bezel is always solid white or yellow gold, even on an otherwise steel watch — which makes it a useful authenticity check. A “gold-tone” fluted bezel is a warning sign.
What is the difference between the Datejust II and the Datejust 41?
Both are 41mm. The Datejust II (2009, ref. 116300/116334) has broader lugs and a thicker case; the Datejust 41 (2016, ref. 126300/126334) is slimmer and more elegant and uses the newer calibre 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve.
How can I be sure a Datejust is authentic?
Buy from a dealer who inspects and guarantees the watch, and check the dial, bezel metal, rehaut and serial carefully. For absolute certainty, authenticate it at an official Rolex Service Centre.
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